You see it all over the forums. Someone will post a beautiful set of eyelash extensions showing amazing ‘four week retention’. The first question everyone asks is “what eyelash extension adhesive are you using?” We think that if we just find the right adhesive, our bonding and retention will be perfect too. It’s a never ending quest for adhesive happily ever after!
But here’s the thing. If you don’t have the right application process, speed and environmental conditions for your adhesive, it’s never going to be perfect.
The truth is, while there are still some questionable products in the global marketplace, most eyelash extension adhesives sold by reputable suppliers are really good quality. A lot of popular adhesives come from the same manufacturer, and in some cases the only difference is the label! Consequently, if an adhesive works brilliantly for one person and not you, often the cause is factors you can control – true story. (Unless your client is not looking after her lovely lash extensions properly – but that’s a totally different story!)
You have two options when it comes to choosing an eyelash extension adhesive. You can:
- buy a few different eyelash extension adhesives with different drying times and temperature and humidity ranges. If your environment isn’t stable, you will still have an adhesive that works for the conditions right at that moment. OR,
- choose an adhesive that works for your application process and speed, then regulate your environment to suit or make adjustments as needed when conditions aren’t ideal.
You also need to ask yourself some basic questions, like:
- What kind of drying time do I need? Is a 1-2 second adhesive too fast for you or is it just right? Do I need a bit more time to get the extension on? Maybe you need a 3-4 second adhesive.
- How good is the ventilation in my work area? Is there a window and door that can be opened? If you have Air conditioning, where is the vent positioned in relation to your beauty bed? Do you have a fan or air purifier? Can you move things around to improve your ventilation?
- What is my temperature and humidity like? Are you able to control it? Do you have a humidifier or dehumidifier if needed? If not, can you get one?
Did you know?
The longer your eyelash extension adhesive takes to cure, the more likely monomer vapours are to appear. Vapours are more irritating in dry air (under 50% humidity).
You can adjust your conditions or even your application process in many different ways to make any adhesive work for you. However, to consistently get the best performance, you need to REALLY understand how eyelash extension adhesives work.
TLDR Checklist for best Eyelash Extension Adhesive bonding, retention and minimum vapour/irritation
If you understand the factors that can affect performance of your eyelash extension adhesive, it WILL make all the difference. When an adhesive works best in 60-70% humidity, if yours is 45% with no temperature or process adjustment to compensate – of course there is going to be a problem.
Let’s be really honest, most of the time the reason your adhesive turns into an evil queen who likes to taunt you is because you haven’t treated her right.
We’ve put together a quick checklist for you! Here are our Top 7 factors to give you the best bonding, retention and minimum vapour or irritation – no matter what eyelash extension adhesive product you choose:
- Make sure surfaces to be bonded (aka natural lashes) are cleansed, rinsed and dried before application begins
- Check the humidity and temperature of your working area (environment) are within the ranges recommended for your product by your supplier.
- Ensure your working area (environment) is well-ventilated.
- Confirm your adhesive product is ‘fresh’. Make sure adhesive dispensed from the bottle is not stringy or gloopy or developed a skin.
- Ensure the adhesive layer when bonding extensions is as thin as possible.
- Bond Extensions tightly and securely, working from zone to zone, eye to eye at a speed appropriate to your adhesive drying time.
- Gently cleanse lashes and eye area, then rinse and dry at the end of treatment to remove any residue.
Would you like to understand why? Check out our handy Understanding your Adhesive for Eyelash Extension Technicians PDF Guide. We go through eyelash extension adhesive fundamentals, as well as our Top 7 factors step by step. We explain why these factors are important and offer tips and advice straight from our Classic Eyelash Extensions training.
Did you know?
Alkalines also speed up Cyanoacrylate adhesive curing. Products such as permanent colours, perming lotions and straightening cremes are alkaline based. As a result, lash technicians working in a hairdressing salon sometimes have problems with adhesive bonding and retention (aside from the more obvious temperature and humidity spikes that can occur with lots of blow drying in close proximity!).
You can address this issue with good ventilation.